Dermaplaning: is it the right treatment for the skin?

Social networks are full of videos promoting this technique. There are those who defend it and those who don’t think it’s a good option. But what and what is this form of facial exfoliation? Is it good for the face? In Práctico, we spoke with several experts.

First thing: dermaplaning is a type of physical exfoliation, which is carried out with a scalpel, seeking to eliminate the dead cells of the first layer of the skin and thus obtain greater luminosity and a better appearance of it. Videos promoting this procedure abound on TikTok and Instagram, even encouraging you to practice it at home. It’s good? Should we practice it?

Let’s assume that all skins are different. There are lovers of this treatment, detractors and those who see its good side and not so much. For this, we discussed with three experts on the subject with different points of view, asking them exactly the same questions, in order to compare their points of view. We spoke with Argentinian cosmiatrist Guillermina Van Thienen (@guillevanthienen ); the dermatologist of the Santa María Clinic, Dr. Irene Araya, and the dermatologist of the German Clinic, Dr. Francisca Daza (@franciscadazadermatology ).

Guillermina Van Thienen, a great advocate of this technique, explains what it is: “It is an exfoliation method recommended for deep cleansing, removing dead cells and facial hair without interrupting their natural growth. After cleaning the skin, a scalpel with a blade suitable for cosmetic use is used and the procedure is performed on the entire face. Thus, continues Guillermina, the skin lends itself to deep cleansing.

Is dermaplaning a recommended exfoliation technique if performed by a professional?

Although Guillermina pleads strongly in favor of this treatment, she does not manage to fully convince our other interlocutors. For dermatologist Francisca Daza, this treatment is more “a physical exfoliation and a shaving method”, than a procedure that promises excellent results for our skin. And even if you think there are points in its favor, it is easier to list the problems that can arise with this practice.

Dr. Araya is direct in his response. It’s not a recommended technique, he tells us. “It is a superficial exfoliation or dermabrasion of the skin, a kind of “fine shave” in which all the superficial hairs of the skin and the stratum corneum, the most superficial layer of the epidermis, are removed, thus removing the protective coating from the skin”.

What are its advantages and disadvantages ?

“Its benefits are multiple. With this technique, you can achieve luminous skin, with a very smooth texture. In addition, it works by concealing large pores and prepares the skin to apply active ingredients,” says Van Thienen. “Its cons would be that the patient may feel a little sensitive skin during the 48 hours following the treatment, but it all depends on his tolerance. For this, a preliminary diagnosis is carried out.

But Irene remains firm in her position. She sees no benefit in it, she says, apparently this technique promises to leave the skin “cleaner” so that products applied later are better absorbed, so that makeup can spread better and a series of others benefits. However, says the doctor, “I don’t find much support for this.” In fact, he says he believes it’s a technique with more downsides than upsides: firstly, because it’s a scraping of the protective layer of the skin and it’s the stratum corneum that protects us sun, ultraviolet rays, smog and external pollutants. , cold, temperature changes. Additionally, a large percentage of the Chilean population suffers from rosacea and sensitive skin. And if used for hair removal, the hair may grow too fast to be particularly useful,” he says.

For Dr. Daza, the benefits are: “The skin can look smoother for a while because the exfoliation is effective and it’s an inexpensive method of removing unwanted hair.” However, looking at the other side of the coin, the dermatologist claims that it also dries out the skin excessively as it removes the lipid layer. In addition, it is a method that can present certain risks of infection and cuts and leaves it susceptible to irritation, an essential disadvantage if we take into account that there are social media accounts that promote the supplies. to perform this practice at home. Francisca also adds, “It’s an inexpensive technique (to exfoliate), but there are other better ones.” Según el parecer de la especialista de la Clínica Alemana, existenten métodos de exfoliación más seguros y con májores resultsados ​​que el dermaplaning, como la exfoliación con point de diamante o la quimica, que realiza un dermatólogo(a) con activos como alfahidroxiácidos o ácido retinoico , among others. There is also the alternative of exfoliation with chemical particles, which generates microdermabrasion.

Is it possible to have more facial hair after dermaplaning? If so, what features does it have?

If one thinks of the classic saying that revolves around shaving legs and other parts of the body – the one that ensures that when you shave your hair, it gets thicker – it would be logical to think that the same thing would happen. would produce with this technique. However, unanimously the answer is no. Because? Dermatologist Francisca Daza details it perfectly: “When you cut the hair in half, you leave it with a thicker surface, so you feel it thicker. And, when pulled out from the root, the hair has a tip, feeling softer. For this reason, with dermaplaning, it may feel like the hair is thickening, but it isn’t. It’s a safe way to shave.”

Who should avoid using this technique and why?

“It cannot be used on acne-prone skin or rosacea-prone skin,” says Guillermina. Dr. Daza adds to this list, people who have very thick hair, who have dry, sensitive or allergic skin.

“The majority of the Chilean population should avoid this technique: people with contact dermatitis, irritated skin, rosacea, dry skin, skin that tends to stain”, specifies the dermatologist from the Santa María clinic.

Francisca Daza is also adamant about the importance of choosing who performs these techniques: “Dermaplaning and diamond-tip exfoliation should always be performed by professionals such as a cosmetologist. Without exception”.

Source: Latercera

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