Iceland, known for its northern lights, geysers, geothermal spas and volcanoes, is emerging as a golf destination, according to Mail Sport, which travelled to Reykjavik to play three of the country's courses. Iceland has around 65 golf courses in total, with more being built, and recorded its highest ever May temperature this year at 26 degrees. During Mail Sport's visit in late September, temperatures were generally between 10 and 12 degrees.
Kielir Golf Club
Kielir Golf Club sits about a 15-minute drive from central Reykjavik and has around 2,000 members, in a country with a population just shy of 390,000. The course runs through lava fields and features a Trackman driving range, a converted whale sanctuary that now serves as a putting green (the sanctuary once housed the whale from the film Free Willy), and a clubhouse overlooking the Nordic sea and the lava fields.
A yellow weather warning limited Mail Sport to four holes. Holes two and three are considered among the course's best, with the third a drivable par four that narrows near the green and features a rough mound in the middle of the fairway. On the first par three, a six iron travelled only about 70 yards in the wind. The club's general manager said he thought the group was mad to want to play in those conditions.
Mosfellsbær Golf Club
Mosfellsbær Golf Club's 18 holes are split into two nines requiring separate tee times, running along the sea with mountains as a backdrop. Mail Sport was paired with Ari, a seven-handicap club member who guided the round and sank his first ever hole in one on a par three on the front nine, which was captured on video.
The front nine loops around a valley, starting and finishing at the clubhouse. The first hole demands a precise tee shot to an island green, and a par five at the turn tempts players to drive over the following hole's green before an uphill climb to the actual green. All three courses on the trip are links courses exposed to wind, though conditions were described as remarkably agreeable given the location and the previous day's weather.
The back nine runs along the coast with difficult par fours and fives and is almost twice as long as the front nine from every tee. The clubhouse, described as modern and slick, overlooks the course, and the food, pizzas eaten after the round, was rated the best of the three courses visited.
Brautarholt
Brautarholt has been voted the number one golf course in Iceland by several outlets and has been named among the world's top 100 courses. Its signature first hole is a par five that begins with a downward drive and plays to an island green, with shots hit long going into the sea.
The walk to the second hole, a par three barely over 100 yards, is steep. The course was a 12-hole layout until it was expanded to 18 holes a few months ago, and the ninth hole returns players to the hill climbed after the first, heading back toward the clubhouse. The clubhouse lags behind the other two courses visited, though expansion plans are in place, and the driving range is still under construction.
Things to do
Reykjavik's streets feature buildings painted in bright colours and covered in art. Mail Sport visited the Sky Lagoon, about 15 minutes from its central Reykjavik hotel, where visitors can bathe in natural hot springs fed by the island's volcanoes. The site includes a seven-step spa that ends in a cold plunge before guests return to a jacuzzi-style pool, along with a bar carved into volcanic rock.
Dining
The trip's first dinner was at Apotek, roughly 100 yards from the Parliament Hilton hotel, where Mail Sport had a T-bone steak. The group then ate at Raoageroi, an Italian restaurant on the coast that also serves as one of the best spots to view the northern lights, where a lasagne with four layers of pasta and cheese was served. The final meal was at Torfan, a five-minute walk from the hotel and city centre, which served reindeer tongue as an appetiser as part of an Icelandic menu.
Travel and where to stay
Mail Sport flew with Icelandair, Iceland's main airline, and returned in the airline's Saga Premium cabin, which offers wide recliner-style seats with more legroom than economy, plus a pillow, blanket, amenity kit and bottle of water for each passenger. Saga Premium passengers also get access to a lounge featuring a free buffet, including chicken wings, free drinks, seating and showers.
Flights land at Keflavik airport, 45 minutes from Reykjavik, and Mail Sport recommended hiring a car both for the airport transfer and for reaching the golf courses, which are all about 20 minutes from the city centre. The group stayed at the Parliament Hilton, located in the centre of Reykjavik within walking distance of the city's landmarks, which also has a gym and breakfast service.
Bucket list
On the final night of the trip, Mail Sport saw the northern lights from a spot at the edge of Reykjavik far enough from city lights for the darkness needed to view them. A nine-point scale is used to rate the likelihood of seeing the lights, and the forecast that night stood at three. After around 75 minutes in the cold, a long cloud formation appeared and turned into the green and purple lights as the group was close to giving up.