Do you have permanent nail polish? These are the risks for your nails

You have a wedding on the weekend. What do you do with your nails? Permanent enamelling. You are going on vacation for a few weeks: applying permanent varnish. Important meetings are coming up at work: permanent polishing.

What happens if you keep glazing over and over again? Is it harmless for your nails to constantly subject them to this intense treatment? No way.

After this impeccable appearance, with bright colors and a perfect finish, there are several precautions to take into account, especially if you apply it often on your hands. Having nail polish that lasts for weeks, without losing color or shine, has consequences, and doing it constantly can cause damage that is difficult to repair.

“Frequent use of permanent nail polish can damage nails, both temporarily and in the long term,” explains Constanza Ullrich, dermatologist at the RedSalud Vitacura clinic. Anyone who has undergone this treatment knows that it is not subtle: the chemicals used, such as acrylates, are also present in industrial paints and varnishes, and adhesives like cyanoacrylate can also have a corrosive effect in the time.

But the most aggressive is the removal of nail polish: if done too frequently or periodically, it can cause the destruction of the nail plate, the natural layer that is on the surface of the nail and which is likely to break due to the nail. too much treatment. “During enamel removal, when the plastic or foil is scraped away, the process can be very forceful and traumatic, generating some destruction in the process,” says Ullrich.

“Cosmetic nail products are used by millions of people and although they are relatively safe, there can be complications associated with both the instruments used and the nail polish remover or UV radiation lamp “, comments Catalina Jahr Andrade, dermatologist and medical academic. U. Andrés Bello Viña del Mar.

“All of these physical processes can cause nail thinning and weakness,” he says. “Poor technique can cause infection and they can also develop allergic dermatitis due to contact with the agents used,” he explains.

Irene Araya, dermatologist at Clínica Santa María, is even more direct. For her, the ideal is not to use any dermocosmetic product on her nails.

“Nails are signs of our health,” he says. “Thanks to the nail plate, for example, and depending on its condition or color, it is possible to detect diseases that affect different organs of the body (such as kidney disease, liver disease or deficiency made of iron), which will be hampered if they are enameled.

By constantly keeping your nails with some type of cosmetic coating, such as polish or acrylic nails, it is easier to incubate and at the same time mask a nail infection, whether due to fungus or a bacteria. “Dermatologists often notice this when they return from vacation: patients remove their enamel and notice color changes and other alterations which demonstrate an infection that has remained hidden,” he comments.

When polish removal is done roughly, by pulling on the polish, this can damage the most superficial layer of the nail, composed mainly of keratin and other proteins. Francisca Daza, dermatoesthetician at Clínica Alemana, says that “the ideal, to cause as little damage as possible, is to keep the enamel on for a long time, perhaps three weeks or more, since removing it more frequently generates no more deterioration.”

He also suggests that removal be carried out by a professional or carried out with the appropriate products and without haste. “Acetone also damages the nail if applied in too much quantity. This is why you have to withdraw very carefully, I hope you will never do it yourself, neither in haste nor by depositing excessively,” he warns.

“The use of these removers, which may contain acetone or other organic solvents such as acetate or hydroxyethanol, can dehydrate the nail and reduce the adhesion of its fundamental components, thus favoring the fragility of the nail,” says Araya.

Just as “scratching” and removing liquid can damage the nail, the UV lamp, although it seems harmless, generates its negative consequences if the hands or feet are constantly exposed to it.

Currently, these devices are easy and inexpensive to obtain. But even though everyone uses them, both in the salon and at home, they are not harmless. “Most UV lamps emit type A ultraviolet (UVA) rays which, when used excessively, can cause cellular damage to the skin, accelerate aging and increase the risk of cancer,” explains T. -he. Daza adds that, although the latter risk is rather unlikely, “premature aging of the hand is likely to occur”.

“If you do a permanent varnish every 15 days, it’s like going to the solarium every two weeks. This can lead to skin changes, thereby increasing the risk of skin cancer. But cosmetic damage also occurs, as more spots appear and aging accelerates.

The name may not sound familiar to you, but onycholysis is one of the most common problems associated with overuse of permanent nail polish. “Onico comes from “nail” in Greek, while lysis It means destruction,” explains Ullrich. In short, onycholysis translates to “destruction of the nail”.

In simple terms, “if any damage is observed in the structure of the nail, whether it is detachment of the plate or its destruction, it is called onycholysis. This can have various causes, such as accidents, injuries or others, but permanent glazing can also be the cause,” he emphasizes.

In their experience, the most common manifestation after prolonged application of permanent varnish is distal onycholysis, which involves the separation of the nail plate and its destruction at the tip of the nail.

“This condition tends to be persistent, but with natural nail growth and without manipulation, it usually improves over time. I have also observed more severe cases, involving complete destruction of the nail and, sometimes, significant trauma resulting in permanent changes to the nail structure,” says Ullrich.

Onycholysis, adds Arayam, generates significant discomfort in patients, since it causes discomfort because debris or materials accumulate in the space generated, being quite difficult to clean, in addition to the unsightly effect that it results. “This also promotes the production of fungal and bacterial infections that can nest in this space,” he adds. In the worst case, the nail may come off permanently.

“Onycholysis is something that can be reversed,” says Daza. For this, as you must already suspect, it is not advisable to get permanent nail polish or to immerse them so much in water. “It is also very important to hydrate them, by applying moisturizers, especially around the cuticles, taking care of the bumps and keeping them short,” he advises.

“The important thing is to be careful and responsible,” suggests the dermatologist at Clínica RedSalud Vitacura. As we have seen, this is not a trivial process and constant use can take its toll.

“Everything you do to your body has pros and cons,” he says. It is therefore important to evaluate before letting yourself be guided by fashions or trends. “Permanent polish, applied excessively and with poor technique, can permanently damage the nail,” adds Ullrich.

However, he believes that it is not prohibited if it is done from time to time. It all depends on each person: for those who have fragile nails, certain pathologies or significant changes in the skin of the hand, such as dermatitis, even normal nail polishes can be counterproductive.

“Today, nails are considered by many to be an undeniable center of attention in their aesthetic role, and it is an industry that brings in a lot of money,” observes Araya. She suggests keeping them short and clean, moisturizing them with special creams or oils to prevent damage. It is also important to maintain a healthy diet, with the vitamins and minerals necessary to promote good growth, as well as to avoid contact with harmful chemicals that alter its structure, such as detergents and dishwashers — “ always use gloves! » — and not perform. cosmetic procedures on an ongoing basis.

• Always proactive with the manicure: Although getting your nails done is a relaxing part of your routine, it’s important to be involved in the process. “Be proactive with the manicurist, asking if the tools are sterilized and asking them to disinfect the tools and area after each client,” says Jahr. Another point is to never allow the cuticle to be pushed or cut. “It’s the system the finger has to protect itself,” he explains, so pulling and cutting would increase the risk of inflammation and infection.
• Use the solar factor: Since the lamp operates in a hand solarium, it is important to use sunscreen to protect them. Jahr suggests applying it 20 minutes before applying your permanent polish. “It should be a broad-spectrum blocker, which addresses both UV and UVA rays, with an SPF of 30 or higher, to prevent skin cancer and premature skin aging “, he suggests.
• Be careful with traditional enamel: With it, you avoid exposure to light and pulling paint stuck to the nail. Although it is less invasive, you should not fall into its excessive use either. “You always have to be careful and not do it too often: no more than once a week or every 10 days, because the removal is done with acetone and this can damage the nail,” says Daza.
• Rest between icings: Before doing your next manicure, it is best to let the nail rest between one permanent varnish and another. “Try going straight from one polish to the next and giving it about two weeks or more to give the nail time to repair itself,” says Jahr. During the rest period, it is recommended to apply a moisturizing product. “It can be Vaseline, both on the nails and on the cuticles, several times a day: this minimizes fragility and prevents the nails from breaking,” he advises.