Do we need so many steps for a good skincare routine?

The popularization, a few years ago, of the term skin care – an anglicism used to describe facial care – seems to have coincided with a trend that remains strong today: the use of countless skin products.

Because what was reduced a few decades ago to using a moisturizing cream, Today it is a complex method with as many steps as there are products on the market. : scrubs, oils, tonics, essences, serums, masks. The list is long and has its origins in bullying Korean routine of 10 (or more) steps which promises skin as splendid as that of the women of this country.

This boom has enabled important advances in care, such as awareness on the harmful effects of the sun and the importance of using photoprotection all year round. But at the same time, concern grows excessive and unnecessary use of products which are not only very expensive, but can also be dangerous.

One of the most viral calls was made by American Carly Cardellino. The former Beauty Director of Cosmopolitan magazine and columnist on different platforms on the same subject, benefits from privileged access to the most coveted skincare and treatment products. Trend that appears trend that proves. But a few months ago, he shared another story on social media: recently his skin has been showing rashes, irritation and redness in the area around the mouth. Even the most luxurious cream in her repertoire didn’t work and it didn’t. The situation improved until her esthetician suggested she simplify her skincare routine, replacing a dozen products with just two or three.

“Within two days of doing the minimum, my skin healed.” counted On Instagram.

His case is not the only one and the postulate is consistent with what several specialists have been repeating for years. Irena Araya, associate professor of dermatology at the University of Chile, defends a minimalist approach when approaching skin care.

According to her, You only need three basic things: cleansing adapted to your skin type, hydration and photoprotection. “People don’t have the time to do so much legwork. By following these rules and being consistent, you already have a lot to gain,” he says. From this base, other products can be added, he adds, but this will depend on the patient’s age and their skin’s needs.

In addition to being an unnecessary expense, using products that you don’t really need can cause dehydration, dermatitis, irritation, itching and redness, explains Katherine Barria, aesthetic dermatologist at the KB Clinic and member of the Chilean Society of Dermatology. “You don’t need so many steps, but rather a neat, simple routine,” he says.

The skin often becomes dehydrated during use excess acids – such as lactic and glycolic – or when incorrect combinations are mixed , Explain. This directly affects the external barrier of the skin, responsible for insulating and protecting the epidermis and whose alteration weakens us.

For Barria, a complete routine for adults would include, in addition to cleaning, a Vitamin C serum in the morning and a little retinoid in the evening at least two or three times a week, which, depending on the tolerance of each person, can be used several times. In addition, hydration, including hyaluronic acid and photoprotector throughout the year. It can be supplemented by complementary products which will depend, among other things, on whether or not you have a pathology requiring other components.

You could say that simplifying skincare is a trend that started in 2023 explains columnist Jessica DeFino in a article of the New York Times where he cites a handful of experts who advise their patients to opt for a “less is more” approach .

But this trend is becoming timid on the networks compared to the thousands of publications – from experts or less experts – in which extensive and complicated routines reign.

Since her consultation, Irena Araya has seen to what extent social networks have changed the way we inform ourselves and consume. There are two common situations, he says. First, patients arrive with high expectations of success for a product they saw reviewed on TikTok or Instagram which does not have any type of scientific support. He also receives people who consult for skin problems that occurred after adding a viral product to their routines which promised miracles.

“No one wants to age and it’s very latent in the networks” Araya said. The expert points out that the beauty industry, a million-dollar sector, manages to take advantage of this situation.

According to a recent report According to ResearchAndMarkets, the global facial skin care market is experiencing a strong growth, with expectations to reach $142.11 billion in 2030.

We should also not underestimate the power that platforms exercise over consumer decisions. According to study of InSites Consulting of 2022, the 82% of users interested in beauty topics on TikTok say they have heard about the subject on this social network and one in four people bought something after watching a video there.

For Katherine Barria, social media works like a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they have been useful in teaching people how to take care of their skin, but on the other hand, lead to investing in formulas that are not always transparent in their concentrations and active ingredients. “There are also products that are sold under the natural cosmetic label and we must consider that natural does not necessarily mean hypoallergenic . Sometimes these products use fragrances that can irritate and there is no transparency about their process,” he explains.

He also warns against different influencers, very followed and passionate about skin care, who recommend products – some sponsored by the same brands – without having a profession related to dermatology.

The two specialists are launching a special appeal to all people with sensitive skin who are tempted to experiment with new products: “They should see a specialist because their situation could get worse. In Chile there is also a lot of rosacea, which causes some sensitivity in the skin,” explains Araya.

And for everyone recommends constant and repeated use of sunscreen advice that he repeats like a mantra every time he is asked for the recipe for dealing with aging which – surprise – is not only inevitable, but also normal.