Makeup: what are (and how to use) water-activated eyeliners?

If you liked series like euphoria, you can agree that the makeup itself told a story and was essential in defining the character and depth of each character. And although colored eyeliners have been on the market for a long time, the HBO series generated a domino effect, in which many dared to wear eye makeup beyond the traditional black line.

Videos on TikTok or coils on Instagram are full of tutorials where they teach how to use the “aqua eyeliners», or how to activate these eyeliners which, for their proper functioning, require the application of liquid. Other videos go further and show how to achieve these intense looks, where the lids come to life with metallic and shimmering colors.

Unlike other eyeliners, these dry and activate with a damp brush or sponge. This allows for a ton of alternatives and possibilities: depending on the thickness of the tool you use and the amount of water or liner you apply, the intensity and patterns can vary endlessly.

“The main attribute of water-based eyeliners is their pigmentation,” says Catalina Urrutia, founder of shine , a national brand that has more than 50 shades. “The shades are super strong and they are the exact same color as what you see on the packaging. Meaning what I see in the bottle is what I will get in my eyes. This people prefer them,” he says.

“Water-based eyeliners are very versatile,” she says. Nicholas Romero professional makeup artist and content creator to put on makeup. For her, “they are perfect for adding color to your face and body makeup, especially if you are looking for something more artistic”.

They usually come in two formats: palette-like — like a school watercolor dispenser — or in a small bottle or individual container. They are called “water” but in reality they are completely dry. In order for the texture of the paint to become more “pasty”, it must be moisturized with water.

To find out how much water is needed, you can try dampening the brush or sponge, then lightly pat the surface of the eyeliner until you notice the color activating. As we said, it is something similar to what is done when painting with watercolors. “It’s ideal not to use so much water when creating the mixture, because one drop is enough to make an outline,” suggests Romero.

“These are long-lasting products, because compared to liquid or gel eyeliners, they don’t expire or dry out – because they’re already dry! – that’s why they have a long shelf life “, he adds.

One detail you need to consider is the thickness of the brush you are going to use. This, and the amount of water you use, will determine the style you can give your eyeliner.

Although they are smudge-proof, these eyeliners are not waterproof precisely because they are activated by it. Therefore, you have to be very careful with sweat, humidity, rain or tears: unless you want a dripping color look, you will end up with a slightly dripping face.

“The number one trick, and one that many people find, is to use a makeup setting spray,” says Urrutia. The idea is to replace the activation water with this liquid. “That way the mix is ​​more resistant to moisture.”

What follows is a long-lasting fixative, which also includes hyaluronic acid and agave extract, so that it does not dry out the skin and gives it an extra touch of luminosity. Always use it at a distance of 20 or 30 cm from the face.

The other grace of these paints is that, being dry, you can mix them freely and create your own tones or new colors. Behaving like a watercolor, you can use a separate well to incorporate the different colors and make the one you like best. The hardest part, if you liked the one you made, will be to reproduce it exactly the next time. The good thing is that each look will be unique and unrepeatable.

“The right way to store it is to wait for the liquid to evaporate or dry,” Romero points out, so once you’ve applied the water or fixer, you should wait for the bottle or palette to completely dry before to cover it. “It should be kept in a place that is not exposed to direct sunlight or humidity, ideally a dark place where direct light does not reach and that is dry,” he adds.

Therefore, leaving it in the bathroom may not be a good idea. It is best kept in a toiletry bag or makeup box and kept in a closet away from the steam and heat of the shower. Taking this into account, the life of your cosmetic can be extended to more than one year.

*Prices for products in this item are current as of August 19, 2022. Values ​​and availability may change.